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WAINMAN KITES SETUP OPTIONS.

VARIOUS SETTINGS COMPILED AND TESTED INDEPENDENTLY.

There's 3 settings on the front lines (Fast, Medium, Slow), and the same three settings on the back lines. I put the Front lines to Slow and the Back lines to Fast for every day riding.

Front line speed settings need to match the knots on the bridge length. If front line set to slow, move to furthest knot; if front lines set to medium, then move to center knot; if front lines set to fast, move to the shortest bridge knot. Putting the Front lines on Slow makes the kite feel more like a C-Kite. Power is generated during the arc of the turn. That's great for big loops and boosting. Slightly more bar pressure with power through the turn instead of turning on its axis.

For MEGA Loops, set the front lines to SLOW and the back lines to MEDIUM

For Freestyle Loops, Set both front and back to Medium.

For Learning loops (Least Punishment), Set both the Front and Back Lines to FAST.

For Big Boosting, set the front lines to Slow and the Back lines to Fast.

For Waves, set both front and back to Fast. This gives the least bar pressure so that you can ride unhooked with one hand.

For pure wake style...set both front and back to SLOW.

The front lines are labeled fast or slow, but it doesn't change the speed of the kite, but rather the feel and turn characteristic. The front line adjustment should be labeled something like: Nice and Mean. If you hook up the front lines on fast and add the small pigtails, you get more bar pressure and wind range.

If flying in the stock setting, put back lines on the black knot and front lines at stock

TRIMMING YOUR KITE: A good ride starts with a good trimming. Depending on wind force, you have to trim your kite differently Finding the right trim settings will allow you to ride with a good position, where you feel natural, and your body is working correctly. The most common mistake is to trim the kite with too much power (front lines too long). The result is that you have to extend your arms, and even bend your back to reach the proper position of the bar on centerline, so you end up with a pain in the back, and an incorrect riding position.

REDUCING POWER: If you are powered up, you will have to pull the rope going through the clam cleat toward you, reducing front line length compared to back lines. Take care while performing this operation; always have the kite on the side and not at the zenith. Also, because your Rabbit has so much de-power, you should keep one hand on the bar (in the center) and pull enough so the kite has some power, while trimming your front lines with your other hand (if you have one). 

INCREASING POWER: If you’re not powered up enough, release this same rope from clam cleat and let it run a little, lock it again, and feel if you have enough power. From the light wind trimming to the high wind one, the change will be around 15 cm maximum for front line length.

UNHOOKED RIDING: If you want to ride unhooked, the right trim is even more important, because when you ride unhooked, you have to handle the kites’ full power. Try to trim correctly, according to wind conditions. If the wind is light, and you put too much front lines, your kite will start to fly backwards, so pull on trim rope and progressively reduce the front lines. If the kite continues flying backwards, pull again, and try again.The sweet spot is in a range of 5 cm, if you want to ride well unhooked, you’ll have to start tuning your kite right. It s like a guitar, if you want to play right, you’ll have first to tune it right.

MAINTENANCE OF THE BAR: For your safety, and the durability of your equipment, it is very important to clean it with fresh water, as the salt is the worst enemy of plastic, metal, and ropes. Also, always pay attention to your lines while you roll or unroll them, and make sure they are free of knots and damage. Change pieces before they break! You may not be able to do it out there in the deep water.Check your centerline, the rope of the clam cleat (you have a spare one), and everything that could break.Occasionally check if the front lines are even. If they are not, fix this problem,as it is one of the most important things for your Rabbit to fly well. Same thing for back lines. After a while, the front lines might get longer than back lines because they are more stretched, in this case you can add the extra little lines provided in the bag for this.

QUICK RELEASE ACTIVATION: The QR is very simple to perform. Just hold it and push it away from you. To re-assemble, pass the webbing through the ring, fold it and cover it with QR. Use the same process for QR on the leash. Hold it and push it away from you when you want to release.

2 CHICKEN LOOPS: For all those who kite hooked in most of the time (from beginners to advanced riders) the chicken loop with the dingy-guy will be the one you should use. It will avoid unintentional unhooking. For those who want to hook and unhook quickly, we provide another chicken loop, which is a bit longer and does not have a dingy, so you can hook back in much more easily. Don`t forget about his little t-shirt so he won`t get cold.

SAFETY HANDLE: If you can, and if you have time before activating QR, you should grab one front line with the little loop made for this, and then activate your QR. Like this you hold your kite with one front line, and you don t put in danger the people downwind from you. This is a kite rule; always think about your safety and the safety of people around you. Help people, when you can on the water and on the land. Thank you.; always think about your safety and the safety of people around you.Help people, when you can on the water and on the land.

DIFFERENT SAFETY SETTINGS: Depending on your level and preferences, you might want a different level of safety, which will enable a different level of freedom for your riding.

BEGINNER SET-UP: We think that somebody who is still learning to kite needs a leash connected to one of the front lines and his harness (the hook for example). So in case of emergency, when you release the QR, your kite will lose all its power, and will stay connected to you with one front line. This system doesn’t allow the rider to do spins, because the leash will twist around the centerline and might not work so efficiently. We believe that with so much de-power, you’ll be safe if you don’t take too much risk and use the Rabbit in its appropriate wind range. Activating the QR is only necessary in extreme situations. In the event that you utilize the QR, you may not be able to relaunch your kite. You will probably have to come back using self rescue method like swimming carefully along one front line to the kite, holding the kite, and body drag back to the beach (see more description in the” safety” chapter.

RABBIT SET-UP: For those who want to ride unhooked sometime, we add a little ring below your chicken loop where you can attach leash. This simple setting, allows you to unhook, let go of your bar if you want, and stay connected to the kite with a minimum power. This is the system called a suicide leash, but it is no longer a suicide with the rabbit, as de-power is almost complete. For this same reason take care if you try to jump in shallow water and let go off your bar, you will fall like a rock and then we will call it suicidish again.

DOUBLE DEPOWER SET-UP: For some riders, the big de-power of Rabbit is maybe too much for regular riding. If you feel one of them, you can move the upper ball a little more down, and like this you’ll reduce progressively the de-power ability. In this case, if you connect the leash direct to the chicken loop, you won’t have as much de-power as before. If you still want all de-power when you let go the bar, you can connect the red line (provided in the bag) below the swivel, pass it through the bar, and through the ring below the chicken loop, and connect it to your leach. In this case you’ll find back all de-power.